Archive: October 11, 2025

Auxiliary Machinery

Installing a shower sump pump

Oct 11, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

Tired of Soapy Scum in Your Bilge? Here’s the Fix.

There are few things less pleasant on a boat than finding a soupy, grimy mix of soapy water, hair, and who-knows-what-else sloshing around in the bottom of your bilge. For many new boat owners, the shower drain seems like a mystery—where does it all go? If the answer is “straight to the bilge,” you have a problem. This greywater cocktail not only stinks but can also clog your primary bilge pumps with hair and scum, potentially leading to catastrophic failure when you need them most. The professional solution isn’t just a good idea; it’s a necessity for a clean, safe, and well-maintained vessel: the dedicated shower sump box.

A shower sump is a self-contained box that collects greywater from your shower, sinks, and even air conditioning condensate. Inside, a small pump with an automatic float switch evacuates the water overboard through a dedicated thru-hull. It contains the mess, protects your vital bilge pumps, and keeps your boat smelling fresh. This guide will walk you through not just how to install one, but how to select the right system and install it like a seasoned marine technician, avoiding the common pitfalls that can sink an otherwise simple project.

A clean and organized boat plumbing setup featuring a shower sump pump box.

Why a Dedicated Sump is Non-Negotiable

Before we turn a single wrench, let’s be clear on why this system is so critical. Draining greywater directly into the bilge is a cardinal sin of boat ownership. Soap residue creates a film that coats everything, making bilge cleaning a nightmare. More importantly, the hair and debris will inevitably be sucked into your main bilge pump’s impeller, causing it to jam. A jammed bilge pump is a silent threat, waiting for a real emergency to reveal its failure.

Furthermore, many areas, especially no-discharge zones, have strict regulations about what can be pumped overboard. While a shower sump still pumps water overboard, it’s a contained system that prevents oily or contaminated bilge water from being discharged. It’s the responsible way to manage your boat’s greywater, keeping your bilge clean and your essential safety equipment in prime condition.

Selecting the Right Shower Sump System

You’ll generally find two paths: the all-in-one, pre-packaged sump box or a completely DIY setup. For 95% of boaters, an all-in-one kit from a reputable brand like Rule, Whale, or Jabsco is the most efficient and reliable choice. These kits come with the box, pump, and float switch already integrated.

Key Components to Scrutinize

Even with a pre-built kit, the quality of the components matters. Here’s what to look for:

  • The Box: Look for a durable ABS plastic housing with multiple inlet ports of varying sizes to accommodate different hoses. A clear, gasket-sealed lid is a must-have. It allows for quick visual inspection without having to un-plumb anything.
  • The Pump: Most shower sump kits come with a small centrifugal pump, typically in the 500 to 800 GPH (gallons per hour) range. This is more than adequate for handling a shower. Check that it has a built-in check valve to prevent water from flowing back into the box after the pump shuts off.
  • The Float Switch: This is the most common point of failure. Traditional mechanical float switches can get stuck or fouled by hair and soap scum. Newer systems may use electronic field-sensing switches which have no moving parts and are far more reliable. If you have a mechanical switch, ensure it has a protective cover to keep debris from jamming it.

Installation: Getting It Right the First Time

Proper installation is the difference between a set-and-forget system and a recurring headache. Take your time and do it right.

H3: Location, Location, Location

Your first task is finding the right home for the sump box. The ideal location is:

  • Low and Level: It should be installed in a low spot, but not in the very bottom of the bilge. It needs to be low enough for the shower and sink drains to feed into it via gravity.
  • Accessible: You will need to clean this box out periodically. Don’t entomb it behind a bulkhead where you can’t reach the lid. Under a cabin sole or inside a locker near the head is often a perfect spot.
  • Secure: The box must be screwed or epoxied securely to a stringer or mounting platform. A loose box sliding around at sea is a recipe for broken fittings and leaks.

H3: Plumbing the Inlets and Outlet

Plumbing is straightforward but requires attention to detail. Use smooth-bore, marine-grade sanitation hose for all connections.

Inlets: Run hoses from your shower drain and any other greywater sources to the inlet ports on the box. Ensure a constant downward slope with no dips or valleys where water can pool. Secure each connection with a high-quality stainless steel hose clamp. If an inlet port is unused, make sure it is securely capped.

Outlet: The discharge hose runs from the pump’s outlet to a dedicated thru-hull fitting above the waterline. This is the most critical part of the plumbing.

  • The Vented Loop: If your thru-hull is close to the waterline or could potentially be submerged when the boat is heeled over, you MUST install a vented loop. The loop should be mounted well above the waterline. This anti-siphon device prevents seawater from siphoning back through the pump and flooding your boat. It’s a small part that provides a huge amount of security.
  • Hose Clamps: Use two opposing stainless steel hose clamps on the thru-hull fitting. This is standard practice for any fitting that could let water into the boat.

H3: Wiring for Reliability

Faulty wiring is a fire hazard and a common cause of pump failure. Follow these marine wiring best practices:

  • Power Source: Wire the pump to a dedicated circuit on your DC panel, protected by an appropriately sized fuse or circuit breaker (check the pump’s manual for the correct amperage).
  • Wire Gauge: Use the correct gauge of marine-grade tinned wire for the amperage draw and the length of the run. A wire sizing chart is your friend here. Undersized wires will overheat and cause voltage drop, which can damage the pump motor.
  • Connections: Use marine-grade, heat-shrink crimp connectors for all connections. Never use wire nuts on a boat. They will corrode and fail. Ensure all connections are watertight and secure.
  • The Switch: Install a three-way (ON-OFF-AUTO) switch at your control panel. ‘AUTO’ allows the float switch to control the pump, ‘ON’ lets you override the switch to manually empty the box, and ‘OFF’ is for servicing.

Pro Tips and Common Pitfalls to Avoid

  • Install a Hair Strainer: The best way to keep the sump box clean is to stop hair from getting into it in the first place. A simple, effective strainer in the shower drain is your first and best line of defense.
  • Perform Regular Maintenance: The clear lid is there for a reason. Once every couple of months, open the lid, scoop out any accumulated gunk, and manually lift the float switch to ensure the pump kicks on. This five-minute check can prevent a major failure.
  • Don’t Skimp on Clamps: It’s tempting to use cheap hose clamps from the hardware store. Don’t. Invest in high-quality 316 stainless steel marine-grade clamps. They are worth every penny.
  • Avoid 90-Degree Bends: When routing your hoses, use sweeping, gentle bends instead of sharp 90-degree fittings wherever possible. This improves flow and reduces the chance of clogs.

Conclusion: A Project Worth the Effort

Installing a shower sump box may not be the most glamorous boat project, but it is one of the most satisfying. It’s a tangible upgrade that improves daily life aboard, protects critical equipment, and makes your boat cleaner and more reliable. By selecting a quality system and following proper installation practices, you can eliminate the dreaded bilge soup forever. A dry, clean bilge is a happy bilge, and this project is the best way to get there.

Electricity

Bonding system continuity and corrosion checks

Oct 11, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

The Silent Ship Killer: A Boat Owner’s Guide to Bonding System Checks and Corrosion Prevention

It’s a scenario that makes any seasoned mariner shudder. You haul your boat for the season, and the once-pristine bronze thru-hull for your engine intake now looks like it’s been chewed by metallic termites—pitted, pink, and dangerously fragile. Or perhaps you notice a strange fizzing around your propeller shaft zinc just moments after plugging into shore power. These aren’t random acts of misfortune; they are the tell-tale signs of a silent, relentless process: corrosion. And your boat’s first and most important line of defense, the bonding system, might be failing its duty.

Many boat owners see the web of green wires running through their bilge and think of it as just another part of the complex electrical system. In reality, it’s a dedicated safety network designed to protect every underwater metal component from galvanic and stray current corrosion. Understanding how to test its integrity isn’t just good practice—it’s one of the most critical maintenance tasks you can perform to protect your vessel and your wallet. This guide will walk you through not just the ‘why,’ but the practical ‘how’ of testing your bonding system’s continuity.

A mechanic checks the electrical bonding system on a boat's thru-hull fitting.

What is a Bonding System and Why Should You Care?

Before we grab a multimeter, let’s get grounded in the basics. At its core, a boat’s bonding system is an electrical network that connects all major underwater metal fittings—thru-hulls, struts, rudder posts, shafts, and seacocks—to a common ground, which is then tied to your sacrificial anodes (zincs).

Demystifying the Green Wire

Think of seawater as a giant battery electrolyte. When you have two different types of metal (like a bronze propeller and a stainless-steel shaft) submerged in it, they create a small electrical current. This process, called galvanic corrosion, causes the less noble metal to sacrifice itself, corroding away to protect the more noble one. The bonding system essentially connects all these disparate metals, forcing them to share the same electrical potential. This turns your humble zinc anode into a superhero, sacrificing itself to protect every connected piece of metal, not just the one it’s bolted to.

The Two Villains: Galvanic vs. Stray Current Corrosion

Galvanic Corrosion is the slow, natural process described above. It’s predictable and managed by a healthy bonding system and properly installed anodes.

Stray Current Corrosion is the far more sinister and aggressive enemy. This occurs when direct current (DC) from a faulty wire, bilge pump, or other electrical component “leaks” into the bilge water or directly to a fitting. This stray current can eat through a thru-hull or propeller in a matter of weeks, not years. A properly functioning bonding system provides a low-resistance path for this stray current to get to ground, potentially blowing a fuse and alerting you to the problem, rather than letting it silently destroy your hardware.

Your Toolkit: Gearing Up for a Continuity Check

The good news is that you don’t need a degree in electrical engineering to perform this vital check. You just need a few basic tools:

  • A quality digital multimeter: This is the star of the show. Make sure it has a low resistance (Ohms, Ω) setting.
  • Long test leads: To reach from your central grounding point to the furthest thru-hull, you’ll need long leads. You can buy them, or easily make one by attaching alligator clips to each end of a long spool of 16-gauge wire.
  • Small wire brush or sandpaper: Corrosion and paint are insulators. You’ll need to create a clean, shiny spot on each component to get an accurate reading.
  • Contact cleaner and corrosion inhibitor spray: For cleaning and protecting connections you’ve disturbed.
  • Your boat’s schematics (if available): While not essential, a wiring diagram can help you locate the main bonding bus bar.

The Step-by-Step Continuity Test: Putting Your System to the Test

The goal here is simple: to verify there is a solid, low-resistance electrical path from every underwater metal fitting back to a central ground point. The American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standard is our benchmark: the resistance should be one ohm (1 Ω) or less.

Step 1: Establish Your Ground Zero

First, identify a central point in your bonding system. This is often a main copper bus bar where many green wires converge, or you can use the bonding wire connection point on a large, accessible engine block zinc. For this test, we’ll use a main thru-hull or the rudder post as our reference point, assuming it is properly bonded.

Step 2: Set Up Your Multimeter

Turn your multimeter dial to the lowest Ohms (Ω) setting. Some meters have an audible continuity tone, which is a helpful feature. Before you start, touch your two test probes together. The meter should read very close to zero, perhaps 0.1 or 0.2 ohms. This is the internal resistance of your meter and leads; mentally subtract this value from your readings for true accuracy.

Step 3: Probing the Depths – Testing Each Component

1. Connect to Ground: Securely attach one multimeter probe (using an alligator clip is best) to your chosen ‘Ground Zero’ point. Make sure you have a clean, metal-to-metal connection.
2. Probe the Fitting: Take your other probe to the first underwater fitting you want to test (e.g., a seacock). Find a spot on the fitting’s body or flange where you can use your wire brush to create a small, clean patch of bare metal.
3. Take the Reading: Press the probe firmly against the clean spot. Observe the reading on your multimeter.
4. Repeat, Repeat, Repeat: Systematically move through the boat, testing every thru-hull, strut, rudder stock, shaft, and seacock. Don’t forget the fuel fill and deck pump-out fittings, which are also typically bonded for safety.

Interpreting the Results: What Your Meter is Telling You

This is where your detective work pays off. The numbers on the screen tell a clear story about the health of your boat’s defenses.

The Perfect Reading: Under 1 Ohm

If your meter reads 1.0 Ω or less (ideally closer to 0.1-0.2 Ω), congratulations! This component has excellent continuity with the bonding system. It is electrically connected to the anodes and is being protected. Document the reading and move to the next one.

The Problem Reading: High Resistance or ‘O.L.’

If the meter shows a high number (e.g., 50 Ω, 200 Ω) or displays ‘O.L.’ (Open Loop), you have a problem. This fitting is electrically isolated. It’s a ticking time bomb, as it is not being protected by your anodes and is highly susceptible to corrosion. The cause is almost always a failed connection. Trace the green wire from the fitting back. The culprit is usually a corroded terminal ring, a loose screw on the bus bar, or a wire that has physically broken.

Fixing a Bad Connection

To fix a high-resistance connection, disconnect the wire, thoroughly clean both the terminal and the contact point on the fitting with a wire brush, apply a light coat of dielectric grease or corrosion inhibitor, and re-fasten it securely. Test it again. Your reading should drop back into the acceptable range.

Beyond the Meter: Visual Checks and Best Practices

A multimeter test is crucial, but it should be paired with good old-fashioned visual inspection.

  • Inspect Your Anodes: Check your zincs regularly. If they are more than 50% depleted, replace them. Look at the wear pattern. Even, ‘chalky’ erosion is normal. Heavy pitting or ‘cauliflower’ growth can indicate stray current issues that need immediate investigation by a qualified marine electrician.
  • Trace the Wires: As you perform your continuity check, visually inspect the green bonding wires themselves. Look for signs of chafing, insulation damage, or deep corrosion, especially where they connect to terminals in the damp bilge environment.
  • Consider a Galvanic Isolator: If you spend a lot of time on shore power, a galvanic isolator is a wise investment. It blocks low-level DC currents from traveling up your shore power cord, effectively isolating your boat from corrosion problems originating elsewhere in the marina.

Conclusion: Your First Line of Defense

Your boat’s bonding system is a silent guardian, working 24/7 to combat the destructive forces of corrosion. But like any guardian, it needs to be checked on. Performing a continuity test is a simple, quick, and incredibly effective piece of preventative maintenance that any boat owner can—and should—master. It empowers you to find and fix small problems before they become catastrophic failures. So, grab your multimeter this weekend. An hour of your time could save you thousands of dollars in repairs and grant you the peace of mind that comes from knowing your vessel is truly protected from the inside out.

Navigation and Comms Electronics

Integrating a GPS chartplotter with an autopilot

Oct 1, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

Unlock Your Helm: A Sailor’s Guide to Seamless GPS Chartplotter and Autopilot Integration

There’s a moment on any long passage, often in the dead of night with the sea hissing along the hull, when you truly appreciate the silent, tireless crew member at the helm: the autopilot. But an autopilot steering a simple compass course is just a helmsman. When you integrate it with your GPS chartplotter, it becomes a master navigator. This synergy transforms two separate pieces of hardware into a sophisticated, unified system that can steer your vessel with remarkable precision, improving safety, efficiency, and your overall enjoyment on the water. This guide is about moving beyond the basic connection and mastering this integration to truly unlock your helm.

A modern yacht helm station showing an integrated GPS chartplotter and autopilot controls.

Why Integrate? Moving Beyond ‘Point and Steer’

A standalone autopilot is a fantastic tool. You set a heading—say, 270 degrees magnetic—and it holds that course, compensating for yaw and minor wave action. But it’s blind. It doesn’t know about the 2-knot cross-current pushing you south or the waypoint you’re actually trying to reach. It just steers a number.

Integrating the autopilot with a GPS chartplotter elevates the game entirely. The chartplotter becomes the ‘brain,’ and the autopilot becomes the ‘muscle.’ The plotter knows the destination, the planned route, and your real-time position on the chart. It feeds a constant stream of navigational data to the autopilot, which then makes intelligent steering adjustments. This is the difference between steering a compass course and steering a course over ground to a destination.

The Core Benefits of a Unified System

  • Pinpoint Navigational Accuracy: The system doesn’t just steer toward a waypoint; it works to eliminate Cross-Track Error (XTE). This means it actively steers the boat back onto the plotted route line, compensating for wind (leeway) and current (set). This is invaluable for staying within narrow channels or avoiding charted hazards.
  • Fuel and Time Efficiency: By constantly correcting to follow the most direct, pre-planned route, the system prevents the subtle, cumulative wanderings that happen with manual steering or a simple compass course. Over a long passage, this translates directly into saved fuel for powerboats and shorter passage times for all vessels.
  • Reduced Helm Fatigue: This is arguably the most significant benefit. On long watches or when sailing short-handed, the integrated system reliably manages the helm. This frees up the watchkeeper to focus on other critical tasks: sail trim, collision avoidance, monitoring weather, or simply getting much-needed rest. A well-rested skipper is a safe skipper.
  • Enhanced Safety Features: Modern chartplotters often have dedicated Man Overboard (MOB) functions. With an integrated system, a single button press can create an immediate waypoint at the MOB position and command the autopilot to execute a recovery pattern, like a Williamson Turn, steering you back to the location with precision.

The Nuts and Bolts: Understanding the Connection

For modern marine electronics, the magic happens over a network. While older systems used a more cumbersome protocol, today’s standard makes setup relatively straightforward.

The NMEA 2000 Backbone: Your Boat’s Digital Nervous System

Think of NMEA 2000 (often shortened to N2K) as a simple, robust network for your boat. It’s a ‘plug-and-play’ system consisting of a main cable (the backbone) with T-connectors that allow individual devices (like your plotter, autopilot, GPS antenna, and wind instruments) to plug in via drop cables. For this network to function, it must be powered and have a 120-ohm terminator resistor at each end of the backbone. A properly installed N2K backbone is the foundation of a reliable integrated navigation system. It allows all your electronics to talk to each other seamlessly.

What Data is Being Shared?

The chartplotter and autopilot are in constant communication. The chartplotter sends critical navigation data PGNs (Parameter Group Numbers) to the autopilot, including:

  • Bearing to Waypoint (BTW): The direction to the next point in your route.
  • Cross-Track Error (XTE): How far you are, left or right, from the intended route line.
  • Route Information: The complete list of waypoints for the autopilot to follow sequentially.

In return, the autopilot’s core components, like its high-accuracy compass and rudder feedback sensor, send data back to the chartplotter, which can be displayed on screen.

On-the-Water Best Practices for Flawless Performance

Connecting the devices is only half the battle. To get the most out of your system, you need to use it intelligently.

Calibration is Absolutely Non-Negotiable

An uncalibrated autopilot is an unreliable one. After installation, you must perform the sea trial calibration. This involves a series of turns and maneuvers that allow the system to learn your boat’s specific handling characteristics. It also includes ‘swinging the compass’ to correct for any magnetic deviation on your vessel. You will also need to configure the autopilot’s response levels or sea-state settings. A twitchy, aggressive response might be fine on a calm day but will be inefficient and jerky in heavy seas. Take the time to get this right; it pays dividends in performance.

Plan Your Route, Then Engage

Never engage the autopilot on a route you haven’t thoroughly reviewed. Before leaving the dock, build your route on the chartplotter. Zoom in on every leg. Check for depths, obstructions, shipping lanes, and other hazards. When you engage the autopilot, you are entrusting it to follow this plan. Ensure the plan is a safe one. When activating, there’s a key difference between ‘Go To Waypoint’ and ‘Follow Route.’ The former is a direct line, while the latter will follow the specific legs you’ve created—the safer option in almost every scenario.

Know When *Not* to Use It

An integrated autopilot is a tool, not a replacement for good seamanship. There are times when you must take manual control:

  • Close-Quarters Maneuvering: Never use the autopilot in crowded harbors, marinas, or tight anchorages.
  • Heavy Traffic: In areas with dense vessel traffic, you need the instant response of manual steering to make collision-avoidance maneuvers.
  • Unpredictable, Heavy Seas: In very rough and confused seas, an experienced hand on the helm is often better at anticipating wave patterns and surfing safely down a wave face.

The golden rule: The autopilot is steering, but the skipper is always in command and the watchkeeper is always on watch.

Conclusion: Your Smartest Crew Member

Properly integrating your GPS chartplotter and autopilot does more than just free you from standing at the helm. It creates a powerful, intelligent navigation system that steers more accurately and efficiently than most humans can over long periods. It reduces fatigue, increases situational awareness by freeing you up to keep a better lookout, and ultimately makes your time on the water safer and more enjoyable. By understanding the principles behind the connection and adhering to best practices on the water, you can transform this electronic duo into your most trusted and reliable crew member.

JobsToCustomers

Safe Transfer of an 85-Foot Lamberti to the Shipyard — Crew & Inspection by Prisa Yachts

Oct 1, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments #captain, #crew, #master, #piloting, #safe sailing, #sailing

Moving an 85-foot Lamberti to a shipyard isn’t a casual harbor hop. Yard schedules are tight, channels can be narrow and busy, and low-speed handling reveals issues that never show in a sea trial. Prisa Yachts delivers a qualified delivery crew paired with a structured inspection, so your yard period starts safely, on time, and with clear documentation.

Why a Yard Run Is Different

A yard approach concentrates risk in the last mile: limited maneuvering room, cross-winds or current, traffic, and strict haul-out slots. Small oversights (a soft thruster, a hot running gear seal, a clogged strainer) can snowball at the pier. Our process reduces variables before lines come off.

Two Pillars: Qualified Crew + Structured Inspection

1) Qualified Delivery Crew.
We staff with licensed professionals experienced in 80–100 ft yachts and tight-quarters operations:

  • Captain (large-yacht handling, docking plans, contingency calls)
  • Mate/Engineer (live systems monitoring, troubleshooting, checklists)
  • Deckhand (fenders, lines, clear communications at close range)
    Where prudent, we add a local pilot or tug standby for cross-current basins or confined fairways.

2) Structured Inspection (Pre-Departure & Pre-Dock).
Our checklist focuses on what matters for low-speed control and safe intake:

  • Propulsion & Steering: helm hard-over timing, rudder indicator correlation, electronic control response
  • Cooling & Fuel: raw-water flow at idle and maneuvering rpm; filter condition and differential pressure
  • Electrical & Nav: thrusters under load, windlass breaker, redundant comms, nav backup
  • Deck Readiness: fender plan by side, spring line order, tug/assist points
  • Emergency Gear: bilge pumps/manual backups, fire stations, E-stop familiarity

Outcome: a yacht that’s not only running, but ready for a controlled, low-speed approach in a busy yard.

How We Execute

  • Planning Window: route, tides, bridge openings, VTS advisories; we target slack water for the final approach.
  • Departure: engines warm, thrusters tested, comms check complete, fendering pre-rigged for berth changes.
  • En-Route: engineer tracks temps/pressures/flows while the bridge maintains conservative speed and stopping margins.
  • Approach & Docking: briefed hand signals, spring-line order, and pre-agreed go-around criteria; deck keeps fenders live and mobile.
  • Handover: we deliver a Condition & Handover Report (photos, hour meters, recommended yard checks).

What You Receive

  • Crewed transfer (Captain + Mate/Engineer + Deck as required)
  • Inspection report (pre-departure and arrival notes with photos)
  • Passage plan (route, timing, tide/bridge info, yard coordination)
  • Clean handover (documented condition, snags for yard attention)

Why Prisa Yachts

Yard time is expensive; last-mile mishaps are avoidable. Our combination of professional crewing and a disciplined inspection routine keeps your Lombardi’s transfer predictable, documented, and on schedule.

Book your yard transfer with Prisa Yachts—arrive safely, cleanly, and ready to work.