Category: Auxiliary Machinery

Installing a shower sump pump

Tired of Soapy Scum in Your Bilge? Here’s the Fix.

There are few things less pleasant on a boat than finding a soupy, grimy mix of soapy water, hair, and who-knows-what-else sloshing around in the bottom of your bilge. For many new boat owners, the shower drain seems like a mystery—where does it all go? If the answer is “straight to the bilge,” you have a problem. This greywater cocktail not only stinks but can also clog your primary bilge pumps with hair and scum, potentially leading to catastrophic failure when you need them most. The professional solution isn’t just a good idea; it’s a necessity for a clean, safe, and well-maintained vessel: the dedicated shower sump box.

A shower sump is a self-contained box that collects greywater from your shower, sinks, and even air conditioning condensate. Inside, a small pump with an automatic float switch evacuates the water overboard through a dedicated thru-hull. It contains the mess, protects your vital bilge pumps, and keeps your boat smelling fresh. This guide will walk you through not just how to install one, but how to select the right system and install it like a seasoned marine technician, avoiding the common pitfalls that can sink an otherwise simple project.

Why a Dedicated Sump is Non-Negotiable

Before we turn a single wrench, let’s be clear on why this system is so critical. Draining greywater directly into the bilge is a cardinal sin of boat ownership. Soap residue creates a film that coats everything, making bilge cleaning a nightmare. More importantly, the hair and debris will inevitably be sucked into your main bilge pump’s impeller, causing it to jam. A jammed bilge pump is a silent threat, waiting for a real emergency to reveal its failure.

Furthermore, many areas, especially no-discharge zones, have strict regulations about what can be pumped overboard. While a shower sump still pumps water overboard, it’s a contained system that prevents oily or contaminated bilge water from being discharged. It’s the responsible way to manage your boat’s greywater, keeping your bilge clean and your essential safety equipment in prime condition.

Selecting the Right Shower Sump System

You’ll generally find two paths: the all-in-one, pre-packaged sump box or a completely DIY setup. For 95% of boaters, an all-in-one kit from a reputable brand like Rule, Whale, or Jabsco is the most efficient and reliable choice. These kits come with the box, pump, and float switch already integrated.

Key Components to Scrutinize

Even with a pre-built kit, the quality of the components matters. Here’s what to look for:

• The Box: Look for a durable ABS plastic housing with multiple inlet ports of varying sizes to accommodate different hoses. A clear, gasket-sealed lid is a must-have. It allows for quick visual inspection without having to un-plumb anything.
• The Pump: Most shower sump kits come with a small centrifugal pump, typically in the 500 to 800 GPH (gallons per hour) range. This is more than adequate for handling a shower. Check that it has a built-in check valve to prevent water from flowing back into the box after the pump shuts off.
• The Float Switch: This is the most common point of failure. Traditional mechanical float switches can get stuck or fouled by hair and soap scum. Newer systems may use electronic field-sensing switches which have no moving parts and are far more reliable. If you have a mechanical switch, ensure it has a protective cover to keep debris from jamming it.

Installation: Getting It Right the First Time

Proper installation is the difference between a set-and-forget system and a recurring headache. Take your time and do it right.

H3: Location, Location, Location

Your first task is finding the right home for the sump box. The ideal location is:

• Low and Level: It should be installed in a low spot, but not in the very bottom of the bilge. It needs to be low enough for the shower and sink drains to feed into it via gravity.
• Accessible: You will need to clean this box out periodically. Don’t entomb it behind a bulkhead where you can’t reach the lid. Under a cabin sole or inside a locker near the head is often a perfect spot.
• Secure: The box must be screwed or epoxied securely to a stringer or mounting platform. A loose box sliding around at sea is a recipe for broken fittings and leaks.

H3: Plumbing the Inlets and Outlet

Plumbing is straightforward but requires attention to detail. Use smooth-bore, marine-grade sanitation hose for all connections.

Inlets: Run hoses from your shower drain and any other greywater sources to the inlet ports on the box. Ensure a constant downward slope with no dips or valleys where water can pool. Secure each connection with a high-quality stainless steel hose clamp. If an inlet port is unused, make sure it is securely capped.

Outlet: The discharge hose runs from the pump’s outlet to a dedicated thru-hull fitting above the waterline. This is the most critical part of the plumbing.

• The Vented Loop: If your thru-hull is close to the waterline or could potentially be submerged when the boat is heeled over, you MUST install a vented loop. The loop should be mounted well above the waterline. This anti-siphon device prevents seawater from siphoning back through the pump and flooding your boat. It’s a small part that provides a huge amount of security.
• Hose Clamps: Use two opposing stainless steel hose clamps on the thru-hull fitting. This is standard practice for any fitting that could let water into the boat.

H3: Wiring for Reliability

Faulty wiring is a fire hazard and a common cause of pump failure. Follow these marine wiring best practices:

• Power Source: Wire the pump to a dedicated circuit on your DC panel, protected by an appropriately sized fuse or circuit breaker (check the pump’s manual for the correct amperage).
• Wire Gauge: Use the correct gauge of marine-grade tinned wire for the amperage draw and the length of the run. A wire sizing chart is your friend here. Undersized wires will overheat and cause voltage drop, which can damage the pump motor.
• Connections: Use marine-grade, heat-shrink crimp connectors for all connections. Never use wire nuts on a boat. They will corrode and fail. Ensure all connections are watertight and secure.
• The Switch: Install a three-way (ON-OFF-AUTO) switch at your control panel. ‘AUTO’ allows the float switch to control the pump, ‘ON’ lets you override the switch to manually empty the box, and ‘OFF’ is for servicing.

Pro Tips and Common Pitfalls to Avoid

• Install a Hair Strainer: The best way to keep the sump box clean is to stop hair from getting into it in the first place. A simple, effective strainer in the shower drain is your first and best line of defense.
• Perform Regular Maintenance: The clear lid is there for a reason. Once every couple of months, open the lid, scoop out any accumulated gunk, and manually lift the float switch to ensure the pump kicks on. This five-minute check can prevent a major failure.
• Don’t Skimp on Clamps: It’s tempting to use cheap hose clamps from the hardware store. Don’t. Invest in high-quality 316 stainless steel marine-grade clamps. They are worth every penny.
• Avoid 90-Degree Bends: When routing your hoses, use sweeping, gentle bends instead of sharp 90-degree fittings wherever possible. This improves flow and reduces the chance of clogs.

Conclusion: A Project Worth the Effort

Installing a shower sump box may not be the most glamorous boat project, but it is one of the most satisfying. It’s a tangible upgrade that improves daily life aboard, protects critical equipment, and makes your boat cleaner and more reliable. By selecting a quality system and following proper installation practices, you can eliminate the dreaded bilge soup forever. A dry, clean bilge is a happy bilge, and this project is the best way to get there.

Electric vs. gas galley installations on boats

The All-Electric Galley: Is It Time to Ditch Propane on Your Boat?

For decades, the rhythmic hiss of a propane stove and the gentle clatter of a gimballed grate have been the quintessential soundtrack to a cruising boat’s galley. Propane has been a reliable, if sometimes fussy, partner for sailors cooking at sea. But a quiet revolution is taking place below decks, powered by advancements in battery technology and high-efficiency appliances. More and more boat owners are asking the question: Is it finally time to cut the gas line and embrace an all-electric galley?

The move from gas to electric is more than just a preference; it’s a fundamental shift in how we manage energy and safety onboard. It’s about trading the periodic anxiety of propane leak checks for the silent, efficient power of induction. This isn’t a simple appliance swap, however. It’s a holistic system upgrade that demands careful planning. Let’s weigh anchor and navigate the real-world considerations of making the switch.

The Case Against Propane: Why Sailors Are Reconsidering Gas

Before we dive into the allure of electric, it’s important to understand the push factors. Why are seasoned mariners, long accustomed to propane, looking for an alternative? The reasons generally fall into three categories: safety, convenience, and comfort.

The Unspoken Safety Concerns

Let’s be blunt: propane (LPG) is a heavy, highly flammable gas stored under pressure. On a boat, it demands respect and constant vigilance. A proper marine installation includes a dedicated, ABYC-compliant locker that vents overboard, a remote solenoid shut-off valve, and high-quality, chafe-protected lines. Even with a perfect system, the risk of a leak, however small, is always present. Since propane is heavier than air, any escaped gas will sink into the bilge, creating a potential explosion hazard just waiting for a spark. This inherent risk is the number one reason sailors dream of a gas-free boat.

The Convenience Conundrum

Anyone who has cruised internationally knows the frustration of sourcing propane. Bottle fittings and standards vary wildly from country to country, leading to a collection of questionable adapters or the expensive task of acquiring new tanks. It’s a logistical headache that an all-electric system simply eliminates. Furthermore, that dedicated propane locker, while essential for safety, consumes valuable deck or cockpit space that could be repurposed for other gear.

The Heat and Humidity Issue

A often-overlooked byproduct of burning propane is water vapor. Every flame on your stove is releasing moisture directly into your cabin, adding to the ever-present battle against dampness and mildew. On a hot, tropical evening, the ambient heat radiating from a gas stove can also turn the salon into a sauna. An electric galley significantly reduces both of these comfort-killing factors.

The All-Electric Promise: What’s Driving the Change?

The dream of an all-electric galley isn’t new, but until recently, it was impractical for most cruising boats due to power limitations. Two key technological advancements have changed the game entirely.

Induction Cooking: The Heart of the Modern Galley

Induction cooktops are the star players in the electric galley. Unlike traditional electric resistance burners that glow red-hot, induction uses a magnetic field to directly heat the cookware itself. The benefits at sea are massive:

• Efficiency: Around 85-90% of the energy goes directly into the pot, compared to about 40-50% for gas. This means faster boiling times and less wasted energy.
• Safety: The cooktop surface stays relatively cool to the touch, drastically reducing the risk of burns. When you remove the pot, the heating stops instantly.
• Comfort: With almost no waste heat, the galley stays much cooler.
• Cleaning: A flat, smooth glass surface is infinitely easier to wipe down than a complex gas hob with grates and burners.

The Power Revolution: Lithium (LiFePO4) Batteries

Induction’s high efficiency is great, but it still requires a significant burst of power. This is where older battery technologies, like lead-acid, would falter. The real enabler of the all-electric galley is the rise of Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries. They possess the high energy density and, crucially, the high discharge rate capability to power an induction hob and a microwave without damaging the battery bank. They provide the deep, reliable power reservoir needed to make electric cooking a daily reality, not just an occasional luxury when plugged into shore power.

The Reality Check: Planning Your All-Electric Conversion

Tearing out the gas lines is tempting, but a successful conversion requires a systems-based approach. Simply installing an induction cooktop without upgrading the infrastructure is a recipe for frustration.

Step 1: Conduct a Thorough Energy Audit

You cannot guess at your power needs. You must calculate them. An all-electric galley is a power-hungry beast. Start by estimating your cooking usage. A 1500-watt induction burner running for 20 minutes to boil water and cook pasta consumes 500 watt-hours. At 12 volts, that’s roughly 42 amp-hours (Ah) from your battery bank. Do that three times a day, add in a microwave, and you can see how quickly the consumption adds up. For most cruising couples, a LiFePO4 bank of 400Ah is a realistic minimum, with 600-800Ah being a more comfortable target for serious cooking.

Step 2: Plan Your Charging Strategy

A huge battery bank is useless if you can’t refill it. Your charging system must be able to keep up with your new, higher demand. This usually means a multi-pronged approach:

• Solar: This will be your primary workhorse at anchor. A significant array of 400-800 watts or more, managed by a quality MPPT charge controller, is essential.
• Alternator: When motoring, a high-output alternator (120A+) paired with an external regulator that is optimized for lithium charging is key to replenishing the bank quickly.
• Generator/Shore Power: For extended periods of bad weather or heavy usage, a small generator or the ability to plug into shore power provides a necessary backup.

Step 3: Choose the Right Appliances

With power sorted, you can select your hardware. You’ll need more than just a cooktop.

• Inverter: A high-output, pure sine wave inverter is non-negotiable. This device converts your 12V DC battery power to 120V/230V AC for your appliances. A 2000-watt unit is a bare minimum, but a 3000-watt inverter/charger is a more robust choice that can handle multiple loads.
• Cooktop: Choose a marine-grade or high-quality residential single or double-burner induction unit. Pay attention to its maximum wattage to ensure your inverter can handle it.
• Other Appliances: A combination microwave/convection oven is a popular, space-efficient choice to replace a traditional gas oven. Electric kettles and toaster ovens also become viable options.

Conclusion: Is the Future of Your Galley Electric?

Making the switch to an all-electric galley is a significant undertaking, both technically and financially. The upfront cost of a substantial LiFePO4 battery bank, a large inverter, solar panels, and new appliances is considerable. It is not a weekend project.

However, the rewards are equally significant. The payoff comes in the form of enhanced safety by removing a volatile gas from your living space, unparalleled convenience with a single fuel source for all your systems, and a cleaner, cooler, and more comfortable cooking environment. For the modern cruiser investing in a robust electrical system, the all-electric galley is no longer a futuristic concept—it’s a logical, safer, and ultimately more enjoyable evolution of life at sea.

Sanitation system check-valves inspection

The Unsung Heroes of Your Head: A Guide to Marine Sanitation Check-Valve Inspection

There are few things on a boat that can sour a perfect day on the water faster than a misbehaving marine head. That faint, unpleasant odor you can’t quite trace, or the slow, creeping return of water into the bowl after you’ve pumped it dry – these are the classic signs that a tiny, yet critical, component in your sanitation system is failing. We’re talking about the check-valve, most famously the ‘joker valve’.

Ignoring this small rubber part is a mistake many a skipper has made, often leading to a messy, foul-smelling, and entirely preventable repair job. This guide isn’t just about fixing a problem; it’s about understanding the system, performing preventative inspections, and ensuring your marine toilet operates reliably, trip after trip. Consider this your definitive playbook for keeping the backflow at bay.

Understanding the Enemy: What Are Check-Valves and Why Do They Fail?

At its core, a check-valve is a one-way gate. In a marine sanitation system, its job is to allow waste and water to be pumped out of the toilet bowl and down the discharge line, while preventing anything from flowing back. The most common and crucial of these is the joker valve.

The Joker Valve: Your First Line of Defense

Named for its resemblance to the pointed hat of a court jester, the joker valve is a cone-shaped rubber component with a slit or ‘duckbill’ at the end. When you pump the head, the pressure forces the lips of the valve open to let waste pass through. As soon as the pressure subsides, the natural elasticity of the rubber snaps the lips shut, forming a seal. It’s a simple, brilliant design, but it’s also the system’s weakest link.

The Common Culprits of Failure

Joker valves live in a harsh environment and don’t last forever. Understanding why they fail is the first step to preventing it:

• Calcification: The combination of urine and saltwater creates a stubborn calcium scale, not unlike concrete. This scale builds up on the joker valve’s lips, preventing them from closing completely. This is, by far, the most common cause of failure.
• Foreign Objects: A marine head is designed for human waste and marine-grade, rapidly dissolving toilet paper—and nothing else. Conventional toilet paper, paper towels, or sanitary products will not break down and will inevitably get caught in the valve, holding it open.
• Age & Material Fatigue: Over time, the rubber loses its elasticity. It can become brittle, hard, or simply too weak to form a tight seal. A valve that is several years old is living on borrowed time.
• Chemical Damage: Harsh chemical cleaners, solvents, or bleach can destroy the rubber, causing it to swell or disintegrate. Only use cleaners specifically formulated for marine sanitation systems.

The Inspection Playbook: A Step-by-Step Guide

Inspecting your joker valve should be on your annual maintenance checklist, or done immediately if you notice symptoms. It’s not the most glamorous job, but with the right preparation, it’s manageable.

Gear Up: Tools and Safety Precautions

Before you open any part of the sanitation system, assemble your gear. Safety and hygiene are paramount.

• Safety First: Heavy-duty nitrile or rubber gloves are non-negotiable. Safety glasses are a very good idea.
• Tools: You’ll likely need a set of screwdrivers and perhaps a small wrench or pliers, depending on your head model.
• Supplies: A bucket, plenty of rags, a small brush, and white vinegar for cleaning.
• The All-Important Spare: Have a brand-new, correct-model joker valve (and ideally a full service kit) on hand before you start. Never disassemble the head without a replacement ready to go.

Step 1: System Shutdown and Preparation

First, close both the raw water intake and the waste discharge seacocks. Pump the head completely dry. To make the job infinitely more pleasant, flush the system several times with fresh water before you begin disassembly. This will clear the lines of most of the unpleasant contents.

Step 2: Gaining Access to the Valve

The joker valve is typically located in the discharge elbow of the pump assembly. On most manual heads (like the popular Jabsco models), you’ll need to remove the 4 to 6 screws holding the pump assembly to the toilet base. Carefully lift the pump off. Be prepared for a small amount of residual water to spill out—have your rags and bucket ready.

Step 3: The Visual and Tactile Inspection

Once the pump is removed, you can look inside the discharge port and see the joker valve. Carefully pull it out. Now, perform a thorough inspection:

• Look for Damage: Check for any rips, tears, or pinholes in the rubber.
• Check for Debris: Look for any scale, hair, or paper caught between the lips. Sometimes, simply cleaning it is enough, but this is rare.
• The Squeeze Test: A healthy joker valve should be soft and pliable. Squeeze it gently. The lips should spring back together instantly to form a perfect seal. If the material feels stiff, hard, or brittle, it’s time for a replacement.
• Check for Distortion: If the valve is warped or no longer holds its conical shape, it cannot seal properly.

The “When in Doubt, Swap it Out” Rule

Here’s the most important piece of advice: Joker valves are inexpensive wear items. They cost a fraction of the value of your time and peace of mind. If you’ve gone to the trouble of taking the head apart, and the valve looks even slightly suspect, replace it. It is cheap insurance against having to do this messy job all over again in a few months.

Proactive Maintenance: Preventing Future Failures

The best repair is the one you never have to do. A few simple habits can dramatically extend the life of your sanitation system components.

The Right Diet for Your Head

Be vigilant about what goes into the toilet. Use only marine-grade toilet paper, and use it sparingly. Educate all guests on this rule. A small, polite sign in the head compartment can work wonders.

Regular Descaling: The Vinegar Trick

Calcium scale is your primary enemy. To combat it, flush the system regularly with white vinegar. Once a month, close the intake seacock, pump the bowl dry, and pour in about a pint of white vinegar. Pump it just enough to move it into the hoses and let it sit for several hours (or overnight) before flushing it through. This will dissolve minor scale deposits before they become major blockages.

Keep Spares, Keep Your Sanity

A failed head can ruin a weekend cruise. Every boat owner should have at least two spare joker valves and a complete pump service kit for their specific model stored on board. They take up minimal space and can turn a trip-ending disaster into a 30-minute inconvenience.

Conclusion: Master of Your Marine Domain

The marine sanitation system is often out of sight and out of mind, until it fails. By understanding the critical role of the humble check-valve and adopting a proactive inspection and maintenance schedule, you take control. This isn’t just about avoiding foul odors; it’s about being a competent, self-sufficient skipper who understands their vessel from stem to stern. A little attention to this unglamorous system pays huge dividends in reliability and peace of mind on the water. Fair winds and a trouble-free head!