All posts by AlvaroPrisa

Boat Deck

Keeping Your Deck Bristol Fashion: A Sailor’s Guide to Repairing Minor Cracks

Sep 27, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

We’ve all seen them. Those fine, web-like lines spreading from a stanchion base or a tiny, singular crack appearing near a cleat. For a boat owner, discovering a new crack in the deck’s gelcoat can bring a familiar, sinking feeling. While it’s easy to dismiss them as simple cosmetic blemishes, these small fissures can be the proverbial chink in your vessel’s armor. They are not just unsightly; they are potential gateways for water intrusion, which can lead to much bigger, more expensive problems down the line, such as core delamination. The good news is that repairing minor gelcoat cracks is a highly achievable DIY project. With a little patience, the right materials, and a methodical approach, you can restore your deck’s integrity and appearance, keeping your boat in ‘Bristol fashion’.

Understanding the Enemy: What Causes Deck Cracks?

Before we dive into the repair, it’s helpful to understand what you’re dealing with. Gelcoat is the smooth, glossy outer layer of your fiberglass deck. Think of it as a very thick, durable, and somewhat brittle paint. Cracks typically fall into two categories:

* Crazing (or Spider Cracks): These are very fine, shallow cracks that often spread out in a web-like pattern. They are usually caused by the gelcoat becoming brittle from age and UV exposure, or from minor flexing of the deck beneath it. While alarming in appearance, they are typically cosmetic. * Stress Cracks: These are often single, deeper cracks that radiate from a point of high stress. Common culprits include overtightened hardware (like cleats, winches, or stanchions), a minor impact, or significant flexing in a specific area of the deck. These warrant more immediate attention as they are more likely to let water in.

It’s crucial to distinguish these from major structural cracks, which are often deep, wide, and may show signs of movement. If you suspect a crack is structural, or if the area around it sounds hollow when you tap it (a sign of delamination), it’s time to put down the tools and consult a professional marine surveyor or fiberglass expert.

The Essential Toolkit: Gathering Your Supplies

A professional-looking repair is all about preparation, and that includes having the right tools and materials on hand before you start. You don’t want to be scrambling for supplies once you’ve mixed your epoxy.

For Preparation: * Degreaser/Solvent: Acetone is the go-to for cleaning and de-waxing the area. * Rotary Tool (like a Dremel): With a small V-shaped or ball-shaped grinding bit. This is the best way to open up the crack. * Alternative to Rotary Tool: A ‘church key’ can opener or a dedicated crack-opening tool works well for manually scraping open the crack. * Masking Tape: High-quality painter’s tape to isolate your work area. * Safety Gear: Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask or respirator are non-negotiable.

For the Repair: * Gelcoat Paste: This is thicker than regular gelcoat and is designed to fill cracks and gouges without running. It’s essential to get a close color match. Many suppliers offer color-matching kits, or you can buy a neutral base and add tinting pigments. * Catalyst (MEKP): Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide is what makes the gelcoat harden. Handle with extreme care. * Mixing Sticks and Cups: For blending the paste and catalyst. * Plastic Spreader or Putty Knife: For applying the paste.

For Finishing: * Release Agent: Either a clear PVA mold release film, or simply a piece of wax paper or heavy-duty plastic taped tightly over the repair. * Sanding Block: Crucial for achieving a flat, even surface. * Wet/Dry Sandpaper: A range of grits is essential. Start with around 220 or 320, and progress through 400, 600, 800, and up to 1200 or 1500 for a perfect finish. * Polishing Compound: A marine-grade rubbing compound followed by a finer finishing polish. * Buffer/Polisher (Optional): Can be done by hand, but a machine saves time and effort. * High-Quality Marine Wax: To protect your finished repair.

[Image: A well-organized toolkit for gelcoat repair laid out on a clean non-slip boat deck, showing a Dremel, gelcoat paste, sandpaper, and safety glasses.]

The Step-by-Step Repair Process

With your toolkit ready, it’s time to get to work. Choose a calm, dry day with moderate temperatures—ideally out of direct, hot sunlight.

Step 1: Clean and Prepare the Area Thoroughly clean the crack and the surrounding area with acetone on a clean rag. This removes wax, dirt, and oils that could prevent the new gelcoat from bonding properly.

Step 2: Open the Crack (The ‘V-Groove’) This is the most crucial and often most intimidating step. You must widen the crack to give the new gelcoat paste enough surface area to grab onto. Using your Dremel on a low speed or your manual tool, carefully grind or scrape along the crack, creating a V-shaped groove. The bottom of the ‘V’ should be at the bottom of the crack. This ensures you’ve removed all the fractured, weak gelcoat and have a solid base for your repair.

Step 3: Mask Off the Area Use masking tape to create a clean border around the V-groove you just made. This will protect the surrounding undamaged gelcoat from paste and sanding scratches.

Step 4: Mix and Tint the Gelcoat Paste Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Scoop a small amount of gelcoat paste into a mixing cup. If you need to tint it, add the pigment drop by drop and mix thoroughly until you have a perfect match. Once you’re happy with the color, add the correct amount of MEKP catalyst and mix again. Work quickly and in small batches; once the catalyst is added, you have a limited working time before it starts to harden.

Step 5: Apply the Paste Using a plastic spreader, force the paste firmly into the V-groove. The goal is to eliminate any air bubbles. Overfill the groove slightly, leaving the paste proud of the surrounding deck. This is important because the material will shrink a tiny bit as it cures, and you’ll need the excess material to sand down to a flush surface.

Step 6: Seal the Repair to Cure Standard gelcoat will not fully harden if exposed to air. You must seal it. The easiest method is to lay a piece of wax paper or clear plastic over the wet paste and smooth it out. Alternatively, you can spray it with a PVA mold release agent. This creates an air barrier, allowing a full, hard cure.

Step 7: The Art of Sanding Once the gelcoat is rock-hard (allow at least 24 hours), it’s time for the finishing work. Remove your air barrier and tape. Begin wet sanding with your coarsest grit (e.g., 320) wrapped around a sanding block. Use plenty of water and light, even pressure. Your goal is to sand the excess filler down until it is perfectly flush with the surrounding deck. You’ll know it’s flush when the sanding pattern is uniform across the repair and the adjacent original gelcoat. Progressively work your way up through the finer grits (400, 600, 800, 1200), with each new grit removing the scratches from the previous one. The surface should feel silky smooth by the end.

Step 8: Compound and Polish With the sanding complete, the repair area will look dull. This is where the magic happens. Apply a small amount of rubbing compound and, using a clean cloth or a buffer, work the area until the shine starts to return. Wipe it clean and follow up with a finer finishing polish to bring back that deep, glossy finish that matches the rest of your deck.

Step 9: Wax and Protect Finally, apply a coat of high-quality marine wax over the repaired area to protect it from UV rays and the elements. Step back and admire your work—a virtually invisible repair that has restored both the look and the integrity of your deck.

Conclusion

Repairing minor deck cracks is more than just a maintenance chore; it’s an investment in your boat’s longevity and value. It’s a skill that builds confidence and deepens the connection between a sailor and their vessel. By taking a careful, step-by-step approach, you can eliminate those unsightly blemishes and ensure your deck remains strong, watertight, and ready for whatever the sea throws its way. Fair winds and flawless decks!

Electricity

Power Up Your Peace of Mind: A Sailor’s Guide to Installing a Smart Battery Charger

Sep 27, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

There are few sounds more disheartening to a sailor than the weak, defeated groan of a starter motor or the dim flicker of cabin lights. Our batteries are the heart of our vessel’s comfort and safety systems, and keeping them healthy is non-negotiable. For years, many of us relied on old, buzzing ferro-resonant chargers that did little more than dump raw power into our expensive battery banks. Thankfully, technology has given us a far superior solution: the multi-stage smart battery charger. Upgrading to one of these units is one of the most significant improvements you can make to your boat’s electrical system, extending battery life and providing reliable power when you need it most. This guide will walk you through the why, the what, and the how of installing one, turning a potentially intimidating project into a manageable and rewarding one.

Why Go Smart? The Demise of the ‘Dumb’ Charger

Before we grab our tools, it’s crucial to understand why this upgrade is so important. Traditional, or ‘dumb’, chargers operate on a simple principle: they supply a constant voltage. While this gets the job done, it’s a brute-force approach that is terrible for battery longevity. They often overcharge batteries, boiling off electrolyte in flooded lead-acid types and permanently damaging sealed AGM or Gel cells. They have no way of sensing the battery’s actual state of charge or temperature, leading to inefficient and harmful charging cycles.

A smart charger, on the other hand, is like having a battery doctor onboard. It uses a microprocessor to monitor the battery bank and delivers a tailored, multi-stage charging profile:

* Bulk Stage: Pushes the maximum safe amperage into the batteries to bring them up to about 80% capacity quickly. * Absorption Stage: The voltage is held constant while the amperage gradually tapers off. This ‘tops off’ the final 20% of the charge without over-pressurizing the cells. * Float Stage: Once fully charged, the charger drops to a lower maintenance voltage, providing just enough power to offset any self-discharge. This keeps the batteries at 100% without the damaging effects of a constant high charge. * Equalization (for lead-acid): Some advanced chargers have an equalization mode, a controlled overcharge that helps de-sulfate the battery plates and prolongs the life of flooded lead-acid banks.

The result? Faster, more efficient charging, significantly longer battery life, and the confidence that your power system is being managed optimally.

Choosing Your New First Mate: Selecting the Right Smart Charger

Not all smart chargers are created equal. Here’s what to look for:

* Amperage Output: A good rule of thumb is to have a charger with an output of 10% to 25% of your total house bank’s amp-hour (Ah) capacity. For a 400Ah bank, a charger between 40 and 60 amps is a great choice. A larger charger will recharge faster, but don’t go overboard, as excessively high amperage can also damage batteries. Battery Chemistry Compatibility: This is critical. Your charger must* have settings that match your battery type: Flooded Lead-Acid, AGM, Gel, or Lithium (LiFePO4). Each has a unique voltage requirement for its charging stages. Using the wrong profile will, at best, undercharge them and at worst, destroy them. * Multiple Banks: Most modern chargers come with outputs for two or three separate battery banks (e.g., one house bank and one engine start battery). This allows you to charge all your batteries simultaneously and intelligently. * Temperature Sensor: A non-negotiable feature. A remote temperature sensor that attaches directly to a battery terminal allows the charger to adjust its voltage based on the battery’s temperature. It will reduce the voltage when it’s hot and increase it when it’s cold, which is vital for both safety and battery longevity. * Marine Certified: Ensure the charger is ignition protected (conforms to UL 1500) if it will be installed in a gasoline engine compartment. It should also be built to withstand the humid, corrosive marine environment.

The Main Event: Step-by-Step Installation

Disclaimer: Working on your boat’s AC and DC electrical systems can be dangerous. If you are not comfortable and confident, please hire a qualified marine electrician. Always prioritize safety.

Step 1: Safety First & Power Down Disconnect ALL power sources. This means turning off the shore power breaker at the dock pedestal, then the main AC breaker on your boat. Next, turn off your main DC battery switches. Use a multimeter to confirm there is no voltage at the old charger’s AC input or DC output terminals.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools & Materials You’ll need: a screwdriver/wrench set, wire strippers, high-quality crimpers, a drill, and your new charger. For materials, get marine-grade (tinned) wire of the correct gauge (check the charger’s manual!), ring terminals, heat-shrink tubing, and any necessary fasteners.

Step 3: Remove the Old Unit Carefully disconnect the wires from the old charger, taking a photo or labeling them first if the setup is complex. Once the wires are free, unbolt the old unit and remove it.

Step 4: Mount the New Charger Location is key. Choose a dry, accessible spot with plenty of ventilation. Chargers generate heat, and trapping that heat will shorten their lifespan and reduce their output. Do not mount it directly above batteries where corrosive gases can vent. Securely fasten the charger to a bulkhead according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 5: Wiring the DC Side (to the batteries) This is the most critical part. Your charger’s manual will specify the correct wire gauge based on the charger’s amperage and the length of the wire run. Do not skimp here; undersized wires can overheat and cause a fire. * Crimp high-quality, tinned-copper ring terminals onto the ends of your DC cables. * Cover the crimps with adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion. * Connect the positive (+) and negative (-) cables to the correct output terminals on the charger. Most chargers have separate outputs for each bank. * Run the cables to your battery banks. The positive cable MUST be connected through an appropriate fuse or circuit breaker located as close to the battery as possible. This protects the wire in case of a short circuit. * Connect the cables to the correct battery posts. Double, then triple-check your polarity. Reversing the polarity will destroy the charger and could damage other electronics. * Attach the remote temperature sensor to the negative terminal of one of the batteries in your main house bank.

Step 6: Wiring the AC Side (from shore power) This is the high-voltage side. Connect the AC hot (black), neutral (white), and safety ground (green) wires from your boat’s AC panel to the corresponding input terminals on the charger. Ensure these connections are secure and that the wires are properly strain-relieved so they can’t be pulled loose.

Step 7: Configure and Test Before powering up, use the switches or interface on the charger to select the correct battery type (AGM, Flooded, etc.) that matches your batteries. Now, the moment of truth. Turn on the main DC battery switches. Then, turn on the main AC breaker on your boat, followed by the shore power breaker at the pedestal. The charger should power up. Look for indicator lights showing that it recognizes the AC power and has begun its charging cycle. Listen for the cooling fan and check that no alerts or fault lights are active.

Conclusion: Power with Confidence

Installing a smart battery charger is more than just an upgrade; it’s an investment in the reliability and longevity of your boat’s entire electrical system. By taking your time, prioritizing safety, and following the steps carefully, you can successfully complete this project yourself. The peace of mind that comes from knowing your batteries are being charged perfectly—whether you’re at the dock for a week or preparing for a long passage—is invaluable. Now you can cast off the lines with one less thing to worry about, confident that the heart of your vessel is in peak condition.

Boat Deck

Gelcoat’s Guardian Angel: The Ultimate Guide to Protective Waxes

Sep 27, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

There’s a special kind of pride that comes with watching the morning sun glide across a perfectly polished, gleaming hull. It’s a reflection not just of the sky, but of the care and effort you pour into your vessel. That deep, liquid shine isn’t just for looks, though. It’s the visual proof of a well-protected boat. The secret to achieving and maintaining that look lies in one of the most fundamental tasks of boat ownership: waxing. But this isn’t about a quick wipe-on, wipe-off job. This is about understanding the science behind the shine and giving your gelcoat the armor it needs to battle the harsh marine environment.

What Exactly is Gelcoat, and Why Does it Need a Shield?

Think of gelcoat as your boat’s skin. It’s the pigmented resin layer applied to the mold during hull construction that provides the color and smooth, glossy finish. While it looks solid and impermeable, gelcoat is actually porous on a microscopic level. This porosity is its Achilles’ heel. Over time, exposure to the elements wages a relentless war on this surface.

The primary enemy is ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Just like our own skin, gelcoat can get ‘sunburned.’ UV rays break down the resin, causing the pigments to fade and the surface to degrade. This process is called oxidation. The first sign is a loss of gloss, followed by a chalky, dull appearance. Salt, water spots, bird droppings, and environmental pollutants also seep into these pores, further accelerating the deterioration.

Protective wax acts as a sacrificial barrier. It fills in the microscopic pores of the gelcoat, creating a smooth, hydrophobic (water-repelling) layer. This shield does two critical things: it blocks UV rays from reaching the gelcoat, and it prevents salt and grime from embedding into the surface, making cleanup significantly easier.

The Arsenal: Choosing the Right Wax for the Job

Walking into a marine supply store can be overwhelming. The shelves are lined with countless bottles, tubs, and sprays, all promising the best shine and protection. Understanding the main categories will help you cut through the marketing noise and choose the right product for your needs.

* Natural Carnauba Waxes: Often called the ‘king of waxes,’ carnauba is derived from a Brazilian palm tree. It’s prized for producing an incredibly deep, rich, ‘wet look’ shine that is hard to replicate. The downside? It has a lower melting point and doesn’t last as long as synthetics, typically requiring reapplication every 2-4 months, depending on your climate and usage. It’s a great choice for boat show enthusiasts or those who enjoy the process of waxing frequently.

* Synthetic Polymer Sealants: These are the workhorses of the marine world. Instead of a natural wax, they are made from man-made polymers that cross-link to form a hard, durable shell over your gelcoat. They may not have the same visual depth as carnauba, but their protection is far superior and longer-lasting, often holding up for 6 months or even a full season. They offer excellent UV protection and are more resistant to detergents and environmental fallout.

* Hybrid Ceramic Waxes: The newest technology on the block, ceramic (often SiO2 or silicon dioxide) coatings create a semi-permanent, glass-like layer on your gelcoat that is exceptionally hard and slick. This offers the ultimate in durability and protection, sometimes lasting for over a year. The surface becomes so hydrophobic that water and dirt slide right off. However, the application process is more demanding and less forgiving than traditional waxes. The prep work must be flawless, as you are essentially locking in the condition of the surface underneath.

* Cleaner Waxes: These are ‘all-in-one’ products that contain a mild abrasive or chemical cleaner mixed with a protective wax (usually a synthetic blend). They are designed for boats with light to moderate oxidation. They save a step by cleaning, polishing, and protecting in a single application. While convenient, they don’t offer the same level of protection or longevity as a dedicated multi-step process.

The Art of Application: A Step-by-Step Guide to a Flawless Finish

Having the best wax in the world won’t matter if the application is poor. The secret to a lasting, professional-looking finish is 90% preparation and 10% application.

Step 1: The Critical Cleanse
You cannot wax a dirty boat. Start by washing the hull thoroughly with a quality marine boat soap to remove loose dirt, salt, and grime. If you have any stubborn stains like rust marks or a ‘boat mustache’ at the waterline, use a dedicated hull cleaner or stain remover to address them now.

Step 2: Decontamination and Oxidation Removal (If Needed)
Run your hand over the clean, dry gelcoat. Does it feel gritty or rough? That’s embedded contamination. Does it look dull or chalky? That’s oxidation. If the answer is yes to either, you must address this before waxing. Applying wax over oxidation is like painting over rust; you’re just sealing the problem in. For this, you’ll need a polishing or rubbing compound. A dual-action (DA) orbital polisher is your best friend here, as it makes quick work of restoring the gloss without the risk of burning the gelcoat that comes with a high-speed rotary buffer. Work in small, 2×2 foot sections until the gloss returns.

Step 3: The Application
Whether by hand or machine, the golden rule is thin is in. A thick, globby coat of wax doesn’t offer more protection; it just makes it incredibly difficult to remove.

* Work in the shade: Never apply wax to a hot surface or in direct sunlight. The wax will dry too quickly, making it nearly impossible to buff off properly.
* Work in small sections: Apply the wax to a manageable area, about the size of your wingspan. This ensures you can remove it before it fully cures.
* Use the right applicator: A foam or microfiber applicator pad is ideal for hand application. If using a polisher, use a soft foam finishing pad on a low-speed setting.

Step 4: The Swipe Test and Removal
After applying the wax, let it haze over. How long this takes depends on the product, temperature, and humidity (always read the directions on the bottle). A classic way to check if it’s ready is the ‘swipe test.’ Lightly swipe your finger across the waxed area. If it leaves a clean, clear swipe, it’s ready to be buffed off. If it smears, it needs more time.

Use a high-quality, plush microfiber towel for removal. Fold it into quarters. Use one side for the initial wipe-off and flip to a clean side for the final, glossy buff. This prevents you from simply re-spreading the hazy wax residue.

Conclusion: More Than Just a Shine

Waxing your boat is more than a chore; it’s a fundamental part of responsible ownership. It’s an investment of your time that pays huge dividends. A regularly waxed hull is easier to clean, resists staining, and holds its color and gloss for years longer. It not only preserves the beauty and pride you have in your vessel but also significantly protects its financial value. So, the next time you set aside a weekend to spend with a buffer and a bottle of wax, remember you’re not just polishing a boat—you’re applying a guardian angel to its gelcoat, ensuring it’s protected for many more seasons of adventure on the water.

Engines

Silence the Sputter: A Complete Guide to Replacing Your Boat’s Freshwater Pump

Sep 27, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

There are few sounds on a boat as simultaneously mundane and crucial as the hum of the freshwater pump. It’s the sound of a morning coffee brewing, a refreshing rinse after a swim, and a clean galley after a hearty meal. But when that familiar hum turns into a constant drone, a frantic pulsing, or worst of all, a dead silence, your tranquil life at sea can quickly become a frustrating ordeal.

Your boat’s pressurized water system is its circulatory system, and the pump is its heart. While they are designed to be robust, they don’t last forever. The good news is that replacing a freshwater pump is one of the most manageable and rewarding DIY projects a boat owner can tackle. It requires a few basic tools, a bit of patience, and will leave you with a deeper understanding of a critical onboard system. Let’s dive in.

Is It Really the Pump? Diagnosing the Problem

Before you rush to buy a new pump, let’s play detective. Many pump-like symptoms are actually caused by other issues in the system. A proper diagnosis will save you time and money.

* The pump runs continuously and never shuts off: This is the classic sign of a leak. The pump is trying to build pressure, but water is escaping somewhere, so it never reaches the cut-off pressure. Before blaming the pump, check every single connection in your freshwater system: faucets, showerheads, hot water heater connections, and the hose fittings themselves. Even a tiny, slow drip is enough to keep the pump running.
* The pump cycles on and off quickly (machine-gunning): If you hear a rapid brrr-brrr-brrr sound when you crack open a faucet just a little, this often points to a failed or waterlogged accumulator tank. The accumulator tank acts as a pressure buffer, smoothing out the water flow. If its internal bladder has failed, the pump will short-cycle. It can also be a sign of a clogged inline filter, which restricts flow and confuses the pressure switch.
* The pump is completely dead: The simplest explanation is often the correct one. First, check the dedicated circuit breaker or fuse for the pump. If it’s tripped, reset it once. If it trips again immediately, you have an electrical short. If the breaker is fine, use a multimeter to check if you have 12V (or 24V) power at the pump’s terminals. If you have power but the pump does nothing, the motor is likely seized or burned out. It’s time for a replacement.
* Low water pressure throughout the boat: The number one suspect here is a clogged filter or strainer. Most pumps have a small, screw-on strainer on the inlet side to protect the diaphragm from debris. These can get clogged with sediment from your water tank. Cleaning this filter should be your first step.

Choosing Your New Pump: More Than Just Flow Rate

If you’ve confirmed the old pump is the culprit, it’s time to choose a successor. You could get an identical replacement, but this is also an opportunity to upgrade.

* Flow Rate (Gallons Per Minute – GPM): This determines how much water comes out of your tap. A 3-4 GPM pump is usually sufficient for a mid-sized boat with a couple of faucets and a shower. A direct replacement is safe, but a small upgrade in GPM can be a nice improvement. Don’t go overboard, as your boat’s plumbing and wiring might not be sized for a massive pump.
* Pressure (PSI): Most marine systems operate between 30-50 PSI. The key is the pump’s pressure switch, which has a cut-in (when it turns on) and cut-out (when it shuts off) pressure. Match this to your system’s specifications. A pump with too high a PSI could damage your plumbing or hot water heater.
* Voltage: This is non-negotiable. If you have a 12V system, you need a 12V pump. If you have a 24V system, you need a 24V pump.
* Variable Speed vs. Standard: This is the biggest upgrade you can make. A standard pump is either on (full blast) or off. It relies on an accumulator tank to smooth out the flow. A modern variable-speed pump intelligently adjusts its motor speed based on demand. When you open a faucet slightly, it runs slowly; open it fully, and it speeds up. The result is a quiet, smooth, household-like water flow, and it often eliminates the need for an accumulator tank, saving space and a potential failure point.

The Toolkit: Assembling Your Arsenal

You don’t need a professional workshop for this job. Gather these items before you start:

* The new water pump
* Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
* Pliers or a wrench for hose clamps
* Wire strippers and crimpers
* Marine-grade, heat-shrink butt connectors
* Pipe sealant or Teflon tape for threaded fittings
* A handful of rags and a small bucket for catching water
* A camera (your phone) for taking ‘before’ pictures

Step-by-Step: The Replacement Process

With your tools and new pump at the ready, it’s time for the transplant.

1. Safety First: Go to your electrical panel and switch off the circuit breaker for the freshwater pump. You don’t want it to kick on unexpectedly while you’re working.
2. Depressurize the System: Open any faucet on the boat to bleed off all the pressure in the lines. Leave it open.
3. Locate and Photograph: Find your old pump. It’s often tucked away in an engine room, a lazarette, or under a settee. Before you disconnect a single thing, take a few clear photos from different angles. This will be your map for connecting the new one, especially for wire polarity and hose direction (inlet vs. outlet).
4. Disconnect the Plumbing: Place a rag or shallow bucket under the pump. Loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet hoses and wiggle them off the pump fittings. Be prepared for a bit of residual water to spill out.
5. Disconnect the Wiring: Disconnect the positive (usually red) and negative (usually black) wires. If they aren’t color-coded, refer to your photo or label them with tape.
6. Unmount the Old Pump: The pump will be secured to a surface with screws through its rubber mounting feet. Unscrew these and remove the old pump from its lair.
7. Prepare the New Pump: Compare the new pump to the old one. You may need to transfer the threaded hose barb fittings. If so, clean the threads and apply fresh Teflon tape or pipe sealant before screwing them into the new pump. Make sure the inline strainer is attached to the inlet side—this is critical for the pump’s longevity.
8. Mount the New Pump: Position the new pump and screw it down. Ensure it’s secure, as the rubber feet are essential for isolating vibration and noise.
9. Reconnect the Wiring: Using your marine-grade butt connectors, crimp the boat’s positive wire to the pump’s positive wire, and negative to negative. Use a heat gun or a lighter carefully to shrink the tubing for a waterproof seal.
10. Reconnect the Plumbing: Push the inlet and outlet hoses firmly onto the new fittings and tighten the hose clamps. Ensure they are snug but don’t overtighten and crack the plastic fittings. Make sure the hoses aren’t kinked.

The Moment of Truth: Powering Up and Priming

Double-check that every connection is tight. Close the faucet you left open. Now, head back to the electrical panel and flip the breaker on. The pump should immediately start running as it works to build pressure in the empty lines.

Now, you need to purge the air. Go to the faucet furthest from the pump and open the cold tap. It will sputter and spit air for a moment before a smooth, steady stream emerges. Once the cold is clear, do the hot side. Repeat this process for every faucet, shower, and washdown on the boat.

Once all the air is out, close the last faucet. The pump should continue to run for a few seconds and then shut off with a satisfying click. Silence. Wait and listen. If the pump stays off, congratulations! If it cycles on for a second every 30 seconds or few minutes, you have a very small leak somewhere. Your new connections are the most likely suspects, so check them first.

Conclusion

Replacing your freshwater pump is more than just a repair; it’s an investment in your comfort and self-sufficiency on the water. By taking the time to diagnose the problem correctly, select the right replacement, and install it with care, you’ve not only solved an issue but also gained invaluable knowledge about your vessel. Now, go ahead and turn on that tap. The sound of that strong, steady stream of water, powered by the heart you just installed yourself, is one of the sweetest sounds a sailor can hear.

Technical Information

The Importance of Antenna in the AIS System

Aug 25, 2025 by AlvaroPrisa 0 Comments

AIS Reliability Starts at the Antenna

Automatic Identification System (AIS) only protects you if your transmit and receive paths are healthy. Most AIS problems trace back to the VHF antenna system—coax, connectors, placement, and the antenna itself. Here’s how to keep the link solid and compliant.

What AIS needs to work

  • Correct frequencies: AIS uses 161.975 MHz (AIS1) and 162.025 MHz (AIS2)—in the VHF band.
  • Clean RF path: low-loss coax, proper connectors, solid bonding/grounding, and a correctly tuned antenna.
  • Good GPS position: Class A/B transponders must have a stable GPS feed for valid messages.
  • Stable DC power: clean 12/24 VDC with proper fusing; voltage sag will degrade transmit power.

Why antennas make or break AIS

AIS transponders have limited power (Class B: ~2 W; Class A: 12.5 W). Any extra loss or mismatch at the antenna system shrinks range and creates “you see me/I don’t see you” scenarios. A poorly tuned antenna (high VSWR) forces the transponder to reduce power to protect itself—exactly when you need it most.

Installation essentials (do it right once)

  • Dedicated or properly split feed: Prefer a dedicated AIS antenna. If you must share with the VHF radio, use a certified AIS/VHF splitter with fail-safe for the VHF.
  • Antenna placement: as high and clear as practical; ≥1 m horizontal separation from other VHF/GPS antennas; keep away from radar beams and metal masts.
  • Coax & connectors: use low-loss 50 Ω coax (e.g., RG-8X or better on small runs), crimped PL-259/BNC with heat-shrink; avoid sharp bends, water traps, and deck joints.
  • Bonding/grounding: follow ABYC/NMEA guidance; bond the splitter/transponder per manual; control corrosion and galvanic paths.
  • Labeling & drip loops: label both ends; include drip loops into devices to prevent water ingress.

Verification & maintenance (the disciplined way)

CheckpointMethodPass CriteriaInterval
VSWR/TuningInline VHF analyzer at 156–162 MHzVSWR ≤ 1.5:1 (≤2:1 acceptable); stable across AIS1/AIS2Commissioning; annually; after any strike/repair
Coax lossAnalyzer or cut-back inspectionLoss appropriate for length/type; no water ingressAnnually
ConnectorsVisual + tug testNo corrosion, full crimp, sealed heat-shrinkQuarterly
Power supplyMultimeter under loadVoltage within spec at the unit; fuse/CB sized per manualCommissioning; annually
On-air checkMarine traffic receiver or buddy boatYour MMSI/position seen at expected rangeSea trial; quarterly
GPS feedAIS diagnostics page3D fix, healthy satellites; no “GPS lost” alarmsEach departure

Tip: Many AIS units expose diagnostics (VSWR estimate, TX count, GPS status) on their web UI/NMEA. Record screenshots in your maintenance log.

Quick troubleshooting cues

  • You see them, they don’t see you: likely TX path issue—check VSWR, connectors, power sag.
  • No targets at all: RX path or splitter mis-wiring; verify antenna and splitter mode.
  • Intermittent range: water in coax/connector, corroded PL-259, or antenna detuning from nearby metal.
  • Alarms during transmit: high VSWR or low voltage—measure both.

Documentation that pays off

  • Save VSWR and coax-loss readings with date, cable length, and antenna model.
  • Keep a simple diagram of the RF path (AIS → splitter → coax → antenna).
  • Log on-air checks (who saw you, range). Trends reveal degradation early.

Bottom line: AIS safety is antenna-centric. A tuned antenna, dry coax, proper separation, and periodic VSWR checks turn AIS from “nice to have” into a reliable collision-avoidance tool.